Monday, April 30, 2012

Hear ye hear ye, a new version of the Chanel three piece sleeve

Available for sale now!!  So you don't have to spend an arm and a leg getting the OOP pattern.
So Vogue has a misprint on their pattern description on the website.  The latest release from Claire Shaeffer is another Chanel jacket and has a three piece sleeve.  For your viewing pleasure the patterns side by side.

Vogue 8804

New Release Vogue 8804

OOP Vogue 8259

Vogue pattern 8259 Shaeffer Chanel jacket 3 piece sleeve
Get over to the Vogue website, or if you are a BMV member  take advantage of their sale.

Vogue 8804

Thread tracing dart

thread tracing dart

Look how cute this dart is!!! The two threads you see are the tails of the thread tracing that mark the legs beyond the dart point.  Thread tracing does make you accurate.

Here's the jacket progress...
jacket backJacket front

The body is sewn together (except for the shoulders) and lightly pressed..  I had planned on a dart but if I can get away without one I'd prefer it.  Once that is resolved I can move ahead to the sleeves.  Considering all of the work, it's moving pretty quickly.

jacket back shoulder excess

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Thread tracing - What color to use?

Ok so we've already established that using dark marks on white organza when attaching it to light transparent fabrics is probably not a great idea.  You could maybe get away with using it only on the seam lines, and not for marking the grain lines on the center of the patterns, another risk  is exposing the seam line markings if you need to let seams out in the final fitting.  After trying chemicals, and the ironing on brown paper to absorb the wax, the markings remained.  So choose carefully.

On to Thread Tracing
(ahhh doesn't that look better? The organza has been recut)

You'll be happy to hear the thread tracing is finished on the body, tomorrow I'll tackle the sleeves, so here's what we've learned....

Using highly contrasting thread on your thread tracing probably also a no no.  I had to recut one side panel to make the side seam adjustment and pulled out all of the thread tracing.  What was left behind was a very light blue line making it look dirty from the right side.  You can see it here.


The Japanese basting thread has short fibers (which is a good property for thread tracing).  It grips the fabric in a way that regular sewing thread does not.  Choose a color closer to the fashion fabric, and if you can't find any....

What can you use to substitute?
How about some DMC cotton embroidery floss, and I just happen to have some in a perfect color for this project.

 If you've never used this before, follow these instructions.  Embroidery floss is really 6 twisted threads in one strand.


When you use it for embroidery, you select the number of threads you want to use and pull them out one by one.  For thread tracing, cut the strand the length you want to use, and separate the threads.


Pull one thread and hold the end of the strand (make sure it's only one thread you're holding onto).  It should come out easily enough, you'll be left with a curly 5 thread strand, but you can find the end and straighten the remaining strand out.


You'll repeat this for every thread you need, just find one thread end hold the opposite end in the other hand and pull that one out of the pack.  Or if you want to be like Martha Stewart you can go to the DMC-USA website for neat illustrations on how to separate the strands properly :)  (we love Martha).


What's nice about it is that it's readily available, you are bound to get a better color match, or coordinated color, you don't need a special needle for it, it goes a long way  and it's not expensive.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Chanel jacket - one step forward two steps back the curvey girl's version

I love the way this is turning out. It's a much slimmer cut than the original pattern. Here is a side by side.
  FrontVogue 8259 muslin front

Back view

 Vogue 8259 muslin back back

So we can see, it's not boxy at all, although there is ease in it.

This was version 3 - which really no longer resembles the original, but the major change on this version was
the addition of the side back panel, and the small bust dart.  I was also surprised that even after making a muslin the fabric version had to be tweaked further.  I took up some darts on the shoulders (that you can see above), and I had to let out the side panel so it would fall straight.

final adjustments

Now, I'm really pleased with this jacket except for one thing.... the markings made on the organza show through the fabric.  I have tried to use some pretty toxic chemicals to get the marks out but they prevail.  So tonight and tomorrow, I'll be cutting out a new organza lining for the front and back, and maybe some sleeve pieces and re working the thread tracing and save these pieces for another jacket where this won't be a problem.  Just when you think you've got it, Murphy strikes!!


Wednesday, April 25, 2012

You could go broke - Japanese cotton basting thread

basting There are a lot of interesting notions for sewing and you really could spend every penny buying them.  I'm onto the thread tracing for the jacket and have decided to try some Japanese cotton basting thread.  It comes in a skein.

Japanese basting thread I wasn't sure what to do next.... if it were a knitting yarn I would wind some balls with it. So here's one way to deal with it. remove the paper Remove the paper (that's where the knot should be hiding) Open the skein. separate the skein Find the knot look for the knot Cut the knot, or not. You can leave it would around all of the strands or you can cut it. Then I cut the large loop on one end. clip one end Now every time I need a strand I just pull one out. Find one thread So far I've found that it's a good length for basting, the thread has short fibers which makes it easy to pull out after the garment is sewn but it does tend to knot a bit in use.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Muslin 3 with sleeve

It's been a long night, so please excuse the cropped photos, this was the best I could do, the camera was not my friend today.

Muslin 3 with sleeve

I'm ready to try this in a not so dear fabric, just so I can move out of the muslin stage, and I really need jackets.
So first up, not a boucle.

ribbed wool crepe closeup

This is a wool crepe with woven ribs, it's bouncy and has a little drape although the weave makes it a bit more stable.  Not a color I would choose normally but I have a few things in the stash that will coordinate with it.

ribbed wool crepe

For this version I will eliminate the back princess lines, so that will add a bit of ease on the back panel.

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Vogue 8259 Chanel jacket - muslin 2

Here's muslin No. 2 with changes from the original pattern. I'm pleased with this but recognize there  is still some tweaking to be done. For instance, the back needs a little more ease. The back armhole needs to be adjusted to eliminate those diagonal folds. When the jacket is worn with nothing beneath it, it looks better, but I will wear the jacket with a little t-shirt or blouse, so that's something to consider when you are making jackets or coats. You need to test it with clothing under the garment to get a more realistic picture of what it will look like in use. Vogue 8259 - Muslin 2 The original pattern had one side panel, and no shaping on the back.

No wonder it's boxy.


- back side panel added (for shaping)
- back princess seams (more contour)
- small tuck in front princess seam panel (accommodate bust fullness)

So here we have version 2 of the muslin.  It's looking a lot better.... maybe when it's not 2am I'll post better pics, maybe when someone offers me that second pot of tea at 3 in the afternoon, I will turn it down.

Tomorrow... the sleeves.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Chanel pattern - Vogue 8259 OOP

This is the holy grail of Chanel jacket patterns... the one with the three piece sleeve.

Vogue pattern 8259 Shaeffer Chanel jacket 3 piece sleeve

Do you hear angels singing?

Now I have this pattern and I made a muslin....
Vogue 8259 muslin front

Vogue 8259 muslin back

Can you say bleh?

I'm not against the round neckline, or that it falls at the hip, it's what happens between the two that I find objectionable.   This is the kind of fit I get in RTW, the kind that sends me home to a box of chocolate and a bottle of red wine.   It conjures up images of all of the ill fitting clothing I've ever had to wear, including that one piece jumper with bloomer bottoms and snap front I had to wear for gym class in high school... eeewwww.  

The sleeve, is another story, and it's why everyone who wants to make this jacket tries to find this pattern.... no I'm not going to show you the sleeve, you must be patient (especially you becki... bwahaha).

I need to get this muslin sorted out first and do a bit more research, because in it's current state I will forget the whole idea.  We all know by now this jacket is good for people with strong shoulders and lean bodies, and we curvy girls need a little more shape because we have waists and need to emphasize them.

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Other Chanel Jacket links

If you haven't seen this youtube video I highly recommend it, it's a 2 minute peek into what goes into making a Chanel Jacket from design interpretation, muslin, cutting, sewing, it's all there.

Making a Chanel Jacket

and then there's another video, a behind the scenes look at the Black Chanel Jacket, it's part of a mini promotion of a book coming out on jacket and how different women wear them.

Black Chanel Jacket

Sunday, April 15, 2012

What would Karl do?

Onto to see the Spring 2012 Chanel collection.
So we see pearls as trim, some fringe and no fringe.
Chanel Spring 2012 b

Chanel Spring 2012 a

I think I really like these jackets, they're a bit of a jacket shrug, very different from anything I've ever seen before.

Chanel shrug jacket sp 2012

 You can view the entire collection on the official Chanel website Spring-Summer 2012.

When all else fails... take it apart

Still playing with the Boucle, actually I've started to take it apart. Look at all of those yarns.


 I think I'm liking the fringe.
 A lot... more of a tan yarn which will do nicely with some linen fabric in the stash. fringe close up

Saturday, April 14, 2012

The Boucle

This was purchased to make a Chanel jacket, primarily because it is a Linton boucle, it was a good price, and I needed some practice with this type of fabric. Pink is not first on my list of favorite colors... so the challenge will be to make this acceptable to wear. Time and time again what online sellers provide is a closeup of fabrics. Closeup And you think, sure it has some pink but it's not predominant, it will be fine. It's home and, it's pink, or pink and white. Right side Maybe it's better from the wrong side. Wrong side How about right side bias? right side bias How about side by side? closeup r w How about the same but further away? r w Just another element of the alchemy of design.... fabrics that misrepresent themselves like partners on a first date... they just want to get you to bring them home (and we all know that fabric stores come sometimes be hostile environments)... so I accuse this fabric of online flirting.... there ought to be a law.

Monday, April 2, 2012

LBD Video from Barney's NYC

Barney's NYC LBD video

I thought this was really sweet, featuring different LBD styles and how to accessorize them.
I think the strapless exposed zipper was my favorite.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Vogue 8648 Muslin second try

I'm not sure what's happening here, it looks better on my dress form than on me.


Here the seams have been adjusted and sewn. A zipper has been added to the back so I could slip into it. Then the front bodice waistband seam needed to be adjusted, so it was ripped out and repinned. I think I need to walk away from this for a bit. I like it on me from the back, better than the front, and since I don't walk backwards for the most part, I need to reconcile my feelings toward the style. I used to love circle skirts which is what this is, but it falls at the calf line on the leg, so it either has to be lengthened or shortened. I like the neckline, and the adjustment to the shoulder means that even if it doesn't have sleeves it will stay on.

We'll see if I feel better about it in the morning.... (back so pretty)